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Thread: General Photography Chat

  1. #166
    Possibly if it's a Nikkor lens. Check Ken Rockwell's site or look for a compatibility chart online. My macro lens was a present from Ty, and it's an old 1959 lens. It doesn't have the autofocus that the new lenses have, but for macro that's not too much of an issue, and TBH it's made me a lot more willing to try buying cheap second hand lenses from eBay, as it's a cracker! I'm terrible at manual focusing, and without a tripod it can be really noticeable; just the tiniest sway back and forth and a photo of a flowerhead goes from sharp, in focus, to totally blurred and useless. I assume this would be the same with a zoom lens, but honestly I'm not sure.

    The zoom lens I got after getting my D3100 was the Nikkor 55-200mm f4-5.6. If you shop around you may be able to get it a wee bit cheaper. Amazon especially are buggers for listing the same lens at 3 or 4 different prices! This photo of Tori was taken at Brussels using the zoom at about 175mm

    Tori Amos
    on Flickr
    this one at 135mm

    from 3rd row. The only problem is a lot of venues (including that one - I got a scolding from an usher) do NOT like you using zoom lenses. If I'd been using a smaller lens I probably wouldn't have had a problem with the usher. Interestingly, the Royal Albert Hall don't have a problem with zooms.

    When I've been taking photos at gigs, I'll take my camera with a 50mm prime lens, which isn't too big, and will have the 200mm hidden somewhere. But then you're messing about swapping lenses (in Brussels this was done during Maybe Cali, so I wasn't missing anything! ) but once you're used to it, it's not difficult to do.

    One disadvantage of autofocus on the Nikon is it can be a pain when it's deciding what to focus on. One shot I took, Tori must have noticed the focus assist light, and posed, looking directly at my camera. However, the fooking thing decided to focus on the edge of the Bosey, so what would have been an absolutely cracking picture was sadly not. So from that point of view, manual focus would definitely be advantageous.
    Tori Amos
    , on Flickr

  2. #167
    Knackered. Scottish Woman's Avatar
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    Thanks for the site recommendation, Mike. I will take a closer look, but I think the answer to my original question is no.

    I'll start saving my pennies now.

    Additional notes: When pulling out my dad's old camera for which I bought a zoom lens for some 20 years ago, I noted that he'd bought exactly the same UV filter as me. The camera is 30-35 years old.
    http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Chinon_CE-4

  3. #168
    [conform, or be cast out] ej's Avatar
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    A lot of lenses for Nikons are compatible with even the most modern cameras. This chart may be helpful: http://www.nikonians.org/reviews?ali...-compatibility

  4. #169
    Find a way to get in the way. MTC's Avatar
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    Never mind. Problem solved.
    Last edited by MTC; 07-16-2014 at 03:01 PM.
    And the ghosts that we knew will flicker from view
    And we'll live a long life

  5. #170
    HALP ME.

    Here is what I want to accomplish:

    A single off-camera flash with softbox, bouncing off a white board as fill. I really like the effect this gives for portraiture.

    Here's what I have:
    Canon 70D
    Speedlite 430EX with a PocketWizard hot shoe adapter
    Two PocketWizard Plus IIIs
    - one on the camera
    - one connected to the Speedlite via the PW hot shoe adapter
    Softbox/Lightstand/etc.

    What's Working:
    I am able get all the pieces to talk to each other. When I press the shutter release, the flash fires off camera.

    What isn't working:
    Every picture I take is completely blown-out white. Is it possible, with my setup, for the exposure to be fully automatic? Or do I have to manually set the exposure? If I have to manually set the exposure, how on earth do I do that? What's a good starting point? Do I have to manage settings on both the flash and the camera or just the camera?

    p.s. Yes, I have googled the shit out of this and the result is that I am even more confused and intimidated than before.
    p.s.2 I know that using my camera pop-up flash as a trigger is an option, but I don't want two light sources - I just want the one softbox source.

  6. #171
    [conform, or be cast out] ej's Avatar
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    I do one-light portraits all the time with a similar setup, except that I use monolights instead of a speedlight (or similar strobe). I always set flash power manually, although I would guess that it's possible to do it automatically with your speedlight. I don't know how to make Pocket Wizards talk properly to your equipment, so I'd not be much help in terms of being able to tell you exactly how to configure that part of things.

    You have to manage settings on both the flash and on the camera. I will typically set ISO 200, f/8 or f/11, and 1/200 or 1/250 shutter speed on the camera with my lights set absolutely no higher than 1/4 power. I keep my lights no more than eighteen inches from the subject.

    If it helps: my setup looks like this: http://instagram.com/p/sxMPn_OhDp/. Ignore the second monolight on the desk. I was lighting the background with that. That light is above the subject to camera right. And that setup results in this photo: https://www.dropbox.com/s/zutsprv6x6...%2034.jpg?dl=0. I did not use fill to balance the light to camera right. Having a softbox very close to the subject allows the light to wrap very nicely. And a reflector would change the way the light looks, obvously.

    Does any of that help?
    Last edited by ej; 10-24-2014 at 03:15 AM.

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