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Thread: Skincare Q & A

  1. #256
    and it sounds like all our lives Kari's Avatar
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    St. Ives Apricot Scrub is, as it turns out, really bad for your face! I guess the walnut shells they use actually can tear your skin and break your capillaries. Or something like that.

    I have friends who swear by the Neutrogena Microdermabrasion kit.

    As far as moisturizers go, I tried about eight million of them before I found one I liked. If you do drugstore, try Neutrogena, Cetaphil or Olay. My day moisturizer is Estee Lauder Time Zone but its a bit spendy. Make sure whatever you get is at least SPF 15.

  2. #257
    she said destroy Lágnætti's Avatar
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    Eucerin moisturizers are decent. Then there's Cetaphil.

    I will join the chorus of 'put the scrub cleanser away now'. Facial skin s delicate, thins with age and really doesn't need to be scrubbed every day - the dry skin can be the result of a normal skin's natural protective barrier becoming slowly compromised over time. The skin on your cheeks is thinnest apart from that around your eyes so it's no surprise that it's the first to dry out. I'd switch to something bland and gentle such as Cetaphil cleanser or a very gentle cleansing bar and see how things proceed. If you insist on exfoliating, do it no more than once a week. There seems to be a American skincare culture of attacking skin with harsh everything and it only leads to more issues in the long run. The best thing you can do for dry delicate skin is leave it alone as much as possible, use gentle cleansers and basic moisturizers and wear a sunscreen everyday if you can find one you can tolerate. Exfoliate with something gentle like a washcloth rather than a scrub with sharp particles in it.

  3. #258
    Oy With The Poodles Already!
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    Thank you everyone. I will look into the moisturizers you've all recommended. I love my st gives, but hearing this is definitely giving me second thoughts about continuing to use it.

  4. #259
    in an infinite regress just owls's Avatar
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    Yeah, all face scrubs - especially ones as coarse as St. Ives - create microtears in your skin that over time can cause broken capillaries, and in the interim can cause generalized sensitivity and dryness from irritation. I used to scrub the shit out of my skin thanks to a horrid doctor who told me to in order to get rid of my acne (which in turn also caused pitted scarred all over my face because the scrubs would break open my cysts).

    If you're not very sensitive, look into a chemical exfoliant and use it no more than twice a week. Something with lactic acid is a good place to start. It's usually less irritating than glycolic, at least in my experience. As suggested above, washcloths also are wonderful if you're looking to just get the dead skin off and not for added benefits. I like these baby washcloths. They are MUCH more gentle than regular ones, but still effective enough that I can only use one a couple times a week.

    If you're not particularly acne-prone, the Neutrogena Extra Gentle cleanser has a lot of great reviews on Makeup Alley's skincare board, as does the creamy Ultra Gentle formula. I personally can't use anything from CeraVe. I have an immediate reaction. Horrible cystic breakouts, redness, raw skin, flaking, etc. There are a lot of good gentle cleansing options in the drugstores. I've actually recently started using Dove's sensitive skin bar, after years of searching for a basic cleanser that didn't flare my SD. So far, so good.

    LRP Lipikar Syndet is something my mom has used for years, in addition to Avene's TriXera moisturizer. She works outside and in winter, her skin used to be raw and peeling constantly from the cold and wind. Since using these two things, her skin has been fine. Since the cleanser is marketed as a body wash, it's in a big bottle and lasts ages. She goes through a bottle of the cleanser and cream in a year, no sooner. The cleanser flared my SD, but she's had absolutely no issues with it.
    Last edited by just owls; 02-16-2015 at 02:22 AM.

  5. #260
    she said destroy Lágnætti's Avatar
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    Avene Extremely Gentle Cleanser is great too - btw. I am prone to SD, although it's been no bother for a while now due to meticulous skincare and treatment. Anyway, I used to use it years ago before my skintype and problems (oily but dehydrated/atopic/SD-prone/rosacea) were properly diagnosed and it was the only thing that didn't sting or irritate when my rosacea/SD etc was bad. I've been using it mornings only this winter as my skin has been dryer and more irritable on the surface due to the cold, stripping winds and less humidity in the air. Seems to have kept it in check nicely. It's not a make-up remover though - I used L'Oreal Skin Perfection Micellar Water in the evening to remove my make-up followed by a wash with a mild goat's milk soap and water. Currently I'm trying out a Japanese Hyaluronic acid toner-type treatment before adding my very basic moisturizer on top. The Hyaluronic Acid is supposed to lock water into your skin before you add the final sealant of mosturizer on top. Seems to be working nicely.

    Does Cerave have Nicotinamide in it? I've noticed most of these newer products with 'actives' fuck up my skin good style. Nicotinamde flares my roscea and SD too. Let's not even talk about what topical Vitamin C does. Triggered nothing but angry, red, peeling, flaking, itching, raw, dry, rosacea and eczema. That was after just two applications. Total fail. Felt like putting battery acid on my skin. No idea why I tried it anyway beyond some vague 'anti-aging' idea because I don't have sun damage or many lines or anything. Took a couple of months to get my skin back in shape after that tomfoolery!

    I'll just throw this in here because it's a skincare thread and why not - the best product I've tried on my skin lately has to be La Roche Posay's Anthelios XL Smooth Lotion 50+ facial sunscreeen. Absolute winner on my skintype. My dermatologists have always said to wear a daily high protection sunscreen all year round but it's always been diffiult to find one that didn't flare a condtion or look dreadful with or without make-up on top. Avene made one I loved a few years then changed the formula so I couldn't tolerate it on my skin. The above product scores on both counts. Seems to settle my skin and works beautifully, almost like a primer, with make-up. It has some of the highest UVA protection you can get on top of high UVB protection and I can see the results - much less diffuse redness from roasacea and generally better and paler and less reactive skin when I wear it continuously. Sometimes I wear it on my chest too, sometimes I use a different sunscreen there but anyway, it's an amazing product and has become a staple over the past 18 months.

  6. #261
    in an infinite regress just owls's Avatar
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    For the Avene cleanser, do you use water at all? I had a sample of that ages ago and for some reason I didn't like it (I can't remember if it caused a reaction, or my face just didn't feel clean), but I might have used it wrong. I think I used it after wetting me skin, but reading the directions now, it doesn't say anything about that. I'd be really interested in what hyaluronic product you're using. I've had good luck with Japanese skincare in general. They're the only sunscreens and cleansing oils I can use at the moment.

    I don't think the CeraVe cleansers have niacinamide in them, but the a.m. and p.m. lotions do. I've had nothing but awful results from niacinamide, and it took me several different products to realize that's what was causing the reaction. At one point I actually bought the ingredients to make homemade niacinamide toner and I thought I was going to have to dip my face it cortisone cream. Peptides as well. I get welt-like bumps all over my face within hours of using a produce with peptides. I have the same problems with all of the "actives". More harm than good. Have you tried a MAP vitamin c product? It's much, much more gentle than ascorbic acid. I haven't tried one yet, but I know a lot of people on Makeup Alley who cannot tolerate ascorbic acid serums love MAP ones. I intend to experiment at some point, but at the moment, but skin is not raw from irritation, so I don't really feel like rocking the boat.

    I have a lot of skin issues that I'd love to correct using actives, but 9/10 times, it just makes everything so much worse. So for anti-aging, for now, I just use sunscreen every day and hope for the best. Maybe I can prevent wrinkles by using all sorts of actives, but it does me no good if it tears my skin up in the mean time. I don't know how or why some people use so many at once, either. I see people who use some sort of AHA *and* BHA daily, and C serum, and +++. I know people who use glycolic acid after they've scrubbed their skin off with a Clarisonic. My skin flares just thinking about exfoliating that much.

    I'll have to check out the LRP sunscreen as well. I love the Japanese one I use (Biore UV Perfect), but it's incredibly expensive to import. I pay about $1 per application because it's such a tiny bottle. It's just the only sunscreen - until now - that hasn't flared my skin. Your skin seems as fickle as mine, so I definitely need to give this a try.

  7. #262
    she said destroy Lágnætti's Avatar
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    Yes - I use either the Avene spray water or just a couple of splashes of tap water after the Avene cleanser. It's water-based so this is all I need to remove the traces. Leaving residue - of cleanser/make-up or whatever on my skin is the least clever idea ever.

    Have you tried a MAP vitamin c product?
    I figure that as 80% of skin ageing is caused purely by exposure to everyday UV rays, a really good sunscreen is the only thing you really need in any anti-ageing regime. The rest is not so important unless you're trying to actually reverse the signs of skin damage. Not going to try any other Vit C products because I don't have any sun damage or real problems with skin ageing that anything topical could seriously address. I initially used it in the spirit of adventure and 'why not' at a time when my skin was basically perfect by my standards and for some reason I thought that meant I could experiment a little and become - I don't know, even more perfect. Haha. Nope. Quite the reverse. So, lesson learned. I know they work well for some people, but they probably have less reactive skin than me.

    I know people who use glycolic acid after they've scrubbed their skin off with a Clarisonic. My skin flares just thinking about exfoliating that much.
    I know, I see this shit all the time on places like MUA (this is what I was referring to with my comment about harsh skincare cultures above) - people going hell for leather on their faces with a combination of chemical and physical exfoliants, endless actives etc, layering on 5 different serums and moisturizers etc and these same people wondering why they have skin that is acting the freaked-out fool long-term or a skin acid barrier that is completely destroyed. HELLO? The long-term effects of these regimes are unknown. I personally think it's foolish for anyone with skin less than leather to be constantly dissolving/scraping off the entire top layer of skin via multiple methods to expose the younger skin that may look fresher for a while but is VERY sensitive to UVA and UVB. We evolved a top, dead layer of skin for a reason - best keep at least some of it there. Yes, you can use a sunscreen, but no sunscreen catches 100% of UV rays, many sunscreens are actually shit (and the ones in make-up are useless) and have hardly any UVA protection (esp. in the US market) and barely anyone actually applies enough to start with OR reapplies every 2 hours to ensure maximum protection anyway. When you've got no top layer of skin left ... this cannot be for the best. I do wonder what this trend for maximum brutal exfoliation combined with a slapdash approach to sun protection (I don't know a single person IRL who uses one daily and if I mention it I get looked at weirdly - most people here think sunscreen is something you only use Abroad for yer hols) will create 20 years down the road.

    The Hyaluronic acid is the Hada Labo brand from Japan: http://www.makeupalley.com/product/s...da-Labo/Toners

    I got mine from a Japanese seller on ebay, cost me about £11, I think. Huge bottle which dispenses the stuff in drops. Figure it should last more or less forever. So far I've found it good but not miraculous. Japanese skincare tends to be good and Japanese sunscreens are definitely some of the most advanced on the planet. The only problem for me tends to be the high alcohol content which helps them be cosmetically elegant but irritates my skin. But they know their shit and have maximum UVA (or PPD) coverage. People marvel over Japanese and Korean women's skin and how the women tend to look in their 20s well into their 40s and this is the simple answer - they prevent damage rather than attempt to cure it. They never tan or use sunbeds, protect their skin from everyday UV to the max using both sunscreen and parasols, gloves, hats etc and don't give a damn who knows it. I wish the UK would adopt this as opposed to the current culture of tanning and spraying skin orange. Give the LRP a try - it has a little alcohol but not enough to upset my skin and we seem to have sensitivities in common. It's not expensive (at least compared to high-end counter stuff which is much less effective as well) ether. Think I paid around £14 for my last tube and because I only use it on my face and neck and sometimes chest, a tube lasts me a long time.

  8. #263
    in an infinite regress just owls's Avatar
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    That's the situation I'm in: I have skin damage I'd like to reverse (mostly texture issues, but also hyperpigmentation from years of being prescribed harsh acne treatments like BP and oral antibiotics - none of which helped and only made my skin worse - and told not to use sunscreen while using them because it would make my acne worse.), but all of the actives I try seem to cause other problems. I agree that if you have no current issues to address, using a good sunscreen and using it daily is the way to go.

    It amazes me when I see someone post on MUA their morning and night routines, and there are at least 10 different products in there. How do people even have enough time to apply everything? You've reminded me of why I tried niacinamide years ago: to attempt to repair my skin barrier function after destroying it with harsh products. Of course, that didn't work out well, but I cannot even tell you how many horribly irritating products I was using at the time, all with the promise of treating my acne or my scarring. Vitamin c, glycolic acid, Retin-a, toners with BHA. My skin always looked as if it had just been burned, which it had. I avoided all of the things you're told to avoid when you have acne and oily skin and my skin was never worse. Now I'm using products that you're supposed to avoid in general, and my skin is better than it has been in ages.

    The US sunscreens in general are useless. The UVB protection is especially abysmal. Most are so cosmetically inelegant that no one in their right mind would be able to apply the proper amount because you would look like you just applied lard to your face. My mom works outside year-round, and she has tried so many different sunscreens. Even the Neutrogena ones which tout and SPF of 70+, applying the proper amount and reapplying, she would get so dark. Her "driving arm" would go from lightly tanned to the color of a Brazil nut no matter how much she was using. The filters were also very irritating to her skin and when she'd sweat, her face would burn. I had her try a Japanese one and she didn't get tan at all that summer. They're selling some LRP sunscreens in US drugstores now, but even those I believe are different formulas than the ones sold in Europe. And you are absolutely right about the cumulative effects of over-exfoliation and not using proper sun protection. Even incidental exposure when your skin is that worn down is going to amount to issues later on. And I've seen ridiculous products marketed here, like day creams with retinol and SPF. You should never use retinol during the day. The addition of a pittance of SPF does not negate the photosensitivity caused by the retinol.

    Thank you for the link to the toner! I'll give it a go. I need something in the morning where I don't need a heavy moisturizer, but want something to protect my skin from drying out from the heat running. Oddly and luckily, the alcohol in Japanese sunscreens does not seem to cause issues for me. I'm sorry they're intolerable for your skin. I'm going to order the LRP from Feel Unique and give it a try once I've run out of my current bottle. I also wish that here in the US there was more of a culture of prevention than treatment when it comes to sun damage (and other health issues). It's hard when people still say things like they need to get a base tan and that will protect them from damage, or talk about how they need a foundation 1-2 shades darker in the summer because they think the drop of spf 15 in their makeup is actually protecting them.

  9. #264
    she said destroy Lágnætti's Avatar
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    Owls, sent you a PM. Check your box!

    I know about irritating filters - spent years not being able to use most sunscreens because they'd have SOMETHING in them which caused burning or a rash. So my sunscreen was mostly staying indoors or in the shade. Bought a sunscreen in Germany a couple of years ago that seemed fine, then one day I applied it to my arms when out walking and the sweat and heat did something to cause it to give me a measles-like rash all over! Seriously, LRP is like a holy grail in this respect to me. I also like Australian products - they deal with serious sun and skin cancer problems over there and have strict regulations about sunscreen formulations and claims. The SunSense products are good in my experience.

  10. #265
    waited with a glacier's patience Churumbela's Avatar
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    I love La Roche Posay. Since an Ulta opened relatively nearby I've been trying out a few products from them, and have loved every single one. I'm pretty sure I've seen that sunscreen in drugstores here during the summer, but haven't checked to see whether they carry it year-round. Will definitely pick it up the next time I see it, it's so hard to find anything higher than SPF 30 around here, and I routinely try to use 50 to 70.
    I am the beginning. The end. The one that is many.

  11. #266
    she said destroy Lágnætti's Avatar
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    I found this pdf incredibly useful when researching sunscreens, btw:

    http://www.personal-care.basf.com/do...lters-used.pdf

  12. #267
    and it sounds like all our lives Kari's Avatar
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    I have the hardest time finding sunscreen above SPF 15 that doesn't make my face just turn into a giant zit. Sunscreens clog my pores like whoa. I know I need a higher level but I finally found a skincare regimen that I love. I don't really exfoliate (I have a sample microdermabrasion thing that I used once or twice and it made my skin feel great but I know i couldn't use it frequently), but I am religious about Cetaphil face wash and moisturizing in the morning and evening.

    My Laura Mercier tinted moisturizer is SPF 20 - which I know isn't great - but my face doesn't seem to get much sun. In the spring and summer when I spend a lot of time outside I walk around with a Neutrogena SPF 50.

  13. #268
    Princess Sparklefists Sansa Spark's Avatar
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    Oh hi, 30s, thanks for the fucking blackheads on my nose.

    HALP!

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